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The meat of it
By Margaux Salcedo
Inquirer
Last updated 04:13am (Mla time) 08/26/2007
MANILA, Philippines - If 2006 was all about foie gras, 2007 is all about Wagyu. Of late it’s been Wagyu here, Wagyu there, with many a restaurant bragging about their Wagyu steaks or Wagyu burgers and convincing many consumers to purchase burgers for over P200.

So what’s up with the Wagyu? I stopped eating meat in 1996 and have only recently begun appreciating it again in fulfillment of my job description, so I’ve been getting dizzy trying to understand the differences between Wagyu and Kobe and Snake River and USDA Prime. Tell you the truth, all I need to be happy is Bulacan pindang (carabao beef tapa). But a serious carnivore should be clear, not confused, about her beef, so here’s the lowdown.

Wagyu is a breed of cattle (Japanese). Kobe is a place (in Japan). All Kobe beef is Wagyu, but not all Wagyu beef is Kobe. Wagyu cattle are bred in different regions or prefectures in Japan, one of which is the Hyogo Prefecture, the capital of which is Kobe (hence the term Kobe beef). Here, the cattle are raised according to strict traditions and methods that result in the production of beef whose marbling is so remarkable, it has gained a reputation for surpassing US prime beef.

Prime is a grade of beef. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has eight grades, prime being the highest, having the highest marbling content. Marbling is the pattern of fat that is considered when grading beef: higher marbling content produces beef that is juicier, more tender and more flavorful.

Now before this Wagyu business came along, we relied on the American grading system and preferred certified American steaks, such as the Certified Black Angus (Angus is also a breed of cattle, originally from Scotland) or the USDA Prime. But the Japanese, instead of simply grading their beef after breeding, bred their cattle for best marbling. So, based on Japanese standards, using their 12-point marbling-score scale, while the most prized beef from Kobe would rank a 12, USDA prime would only have a ranking of 5 to 6.

Hence, the Kobe beef craze. Quality always finds recognition. With Kobe beef, the marbling is so dense that there is 90% fat and 10 percent meat (apparently that’s a good thing). Suddenly everybody wanted a taste?


Now what do you do when everyone wants Wagyu? Well, the cattle made like Starbucks and multiplied around the world. See, the “Wagyu beef” designation can legally be applied to the meat from any cattle of the Wagyu breed; it refers to genetics, not to a place nor to how the cattle were raised and fed. So now there’s Wagyu in the United Kingdom, Wagyu in the United States, and guess what ... Wagyu in Bukidnon. In most cases, these Wagyu are cross-bred with other cattle. This could be a good or a bad thing, depending on the cattle you cross-breed the Wagyu with.

With the Snake River Farm company in the United States, it’s a good thing. They marry the Wagyu with US Black Angus to produce what they call American Kobe Beef. Like real Kobe beef, the quality of this beef is beyond USDA prime. So soft, they call it “butter knife steak,” meaning you can cut it up using a butter knife instead of the regular steak knife. Melt in your mouth yum, it’s endorsed even by Wolfgang Puck and used by no less than the Four Seasons Hotel.

The good news is that in this country, we actually have a range of these different kinds of steaks. I can tell you where to find them, too. Snake River Farm steaks are used by Chef J Gamboa in Cirkulo on Pasay Road, by Chef Carlo Miguel in Mezzaluna in Serendra, at Nanohana in Salcedo Village, and at the following hotels: the Hyatt, Manila Diamond and Mandarin Oriental. If you want to cook some at home, you can visit Terry’s Deli or call Alternatives Food Corporation (tel. 631-7228 to 30).

For USDA Prime Beef, there’s a new little steakhouse on Dela Costa Street in Salcedo Village that serves amazing steaks. The name of the place is Elbert’s Steakhouse (as in Elbert Cuenca of the late Restaurant 12). There is no sign out front, you will have to find the secret red door on the 3rd floor of the Sagittarius Building (shhh don't tell the owner or staff you read about it in SIM, they want to build a rep first by word of mouth but it's too good to keep a secret!). It looks like an elite gentleman's club with leather armchairs and a good selection of single malts. They are only in their opening stages and I have been there only once so I'll have to save the review for another day. But in the meantime, I can share that their rib-eye was juicy, flavorful and had intense marbling, with a richness and depth that reflects the quality of their meats and the expertise of their kitchen. (But the richness and depth of your pocket will also have to be of best quality. The rib-eye costs P2,200!)

For Certified Black Angus, there's Myron's in Rockwell (order the Myron rib-eye and savor the certified marbling!). And for Wagyu burgers, well, they're all over the place: Burger Bar by Massimo's in the Cliffhouse in Tagaytay, Myron's, Malcolm's Place in Salcedo, and Palm Court at the Diamond Hotel, to name a few Wagyu lovers. Be warned though, some (not all) of these Wagyus are half-Pinoy by way of Bukidnon! (Not necessarily a bad thing, if you ask me, but if you're particular, well, there's the heads up.)

But the Japanese don't burger their Wagyu. The Kobe beef burger is an American indiginezation of a Jap delicacy. So if you want to appreciate Wagyu the traditional way, hit Tsukiji on Pasay Road. Tsukiji goes the extra mile to do it right: they fly in their Wagyu from Japan. (In Japan there's Kobe, Ohmi and Matsuzaka beef. Tsukiji uses Ohmi). Here it is appreciated shabu-shabu style in thin strips that are cooked before your eyes. And you know it passes even Jap standards as you look around the restaurant and see the all-Jap clientele. At Tsukiji it's simply the real thing. (Tsukiji is located at 3/F, 900 A. Arnaiz Avenue cor. Paseo de Roxas, Makati City. Tel. nos. 843-4285 / 812-2913.)

So what's the best beef? The snob would say dry-aged Kobe at $200 a piece, maybe more. He would fly to Hong Kong to savor such sirloin. Meanwhile my peasant taste buds remain partial to Burger Machine: thin, greasy burgers that bring back memories of carefree college days and cost less than 50 bucks. No Kobe can beat that!