Sala

foie gras
Originally uploaded by margauxlicious.

(as published in SIM)

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Set for Sala

By Margaux Salcedo
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 07:51:00 04/13/2008

MANILA, Philippines - In the sweltering heat of the summer sun, my sister and I crossed from Ayala Museum to the PLDT building whose neighboring tower houses the much acclaimed restaurant that was my new target. “Ang layo naman ng parking! $#@%*$! Grrr (Parking’s too far)!” It was just a little past noon and the sun seemed to be taking the depletion of the ozone layer out on us. But it could have been our fault: the guard had instructed us to take the back entrance to the building’s basement parking, but we had opted to park at Greenbelt 5 instead.

Walking up the steps to the restaurant in midday, we were greeted by smoking yuppies and by the Makati police, who apparently had decided to hold some sort of free medical check up activity under the tree fronting the building. The second you step into the restaurant, however, it’s a whole new world.

The restaurant’s name is Sala. It is a relocated old favorite; its original home was on Nakpil, back when Malate was happening. I remember the old Sala as a white streak flanked by dark bars with a menu that was impossible on a student’s budget. The new Sala has added color, shades of olive and brown. But they’ve maintained the expensive menu that marks the divide between the “see” and “be seen." As my boss says, “Hindi ka pwede dito kung may epoxy ang bulsa mo (You can’t eat here if your pockets are glued shut).”

Lunch is easier on the pocket, main courses ranging from P650 to P800. Dinner has an altogether different menu that is around P100 to P200 fancier. Each item, however, turned out to be a creative concoction worth every bite.

Appetizers must not be skipped. Over lunch I fell in love with the twice-baked souffle. (A twice-baked souffle means that after the souffle is created traditionally—and this may be days or even weeks ahead—it will be turned out on to a baking sheet and baked again before it served.) The prawn bits are so delicately flavorful and the feta cheese creamy and kicking. There is also burnt cheese on the plate that makes the dish extra fun. But even better than that appetizer is Sala’s impressive foie gras. Foie gras has become quite the staple in fine dining fancies but Sala has its unique must-have version. Here the sauteed foie gras sits atop a little tart, a “vol-au-vent” the menu says, of sweet chestnuts and leek. The vol-au-vent of chestnuts was to me most amazing: using chestnuts instead of the usual meat or even the usual foie gras. Then you feel in your mouth the salty blob of the foie gras as the pastry shell gently crumbles. Figs are added on the side for dots of sweet. Brilliant!

My seat over dinner faced the kitchen, and I was in this state of reverie when I looked up and caught a glimpse of the man behind it all—Carlo Miguel (formerly) of Mezza Luna! First thought bubble: Mezza Luna’s gorgonzola souffle (that dish made such an impression on me that my heart sank when they took it off their menu—but I hear you can specifically ask for it now.) Second thought bubble: Eh kaya naman pala ganito kasarap (no wonder the food is this good). I had heard that he had transferred kitchens but it had slipped my mind. Now I must hand it to Carlo Miguel. This young chef (you wouldn’t know it) is at the top of his game. And he is clearly continually honing his skills, experimenting with traditional French fare and adding his own cosmopolitan flair to it, bringing us creations that are truly world class.

The chicken, for instance. Instead of ordinary breaded chicken, he creates a parmesan and porcini crust. This chef is really the Efren Bata of taste. The porcini especially works wonders, adding a taste of umami to the chicken that even extends to the side of potatoes. For the codfish that is served at dinner, the sides create depth. A celeriac mash mixed with Puy lentils gives the fish a Middle Eastern dimension, a diversion from the more cosmopolitan flavors of the other items on the menu, but a welcome character nevertheless. For the not quite carb-conscious, there is the not-quite-rice Orzo (a rice-shaped pasta) with tiger prawns. It’s a real trip on texture if you are used to rice because the “grains” feel slippery instead of sticky in the mouth. The smoothness of the Orzo is complimented by the chewy prawns. And then again, with texture in the bag, the chef zaps in flavors: salty pancetta, sweet tomato, minty basil. Boom, boom, boom.

The parade of kitchen creations does not end there. You must save room for dessert. I was only able to try the Semifreddo, a frozen chocolate mousse. Suffice it to say, it was fabulous.

The service at Sala is very satisfactory, and although the waiters seem more attentive at dinner than at lunch (must be the heat?), their knowledge of the menu at any time of the day is extremely helpful. The ambience is elegant and chic. I wouldn’t describe it as romantic, which I assume is by design, in anticipation of the power lunches that take place here. After all, it is located in the heart of the commercial district. But the evening lights do work wonders to create a more romantic mood, and in this setting, even an Ai-Ai de las Alas will manage to look like a Pia Guanio, with a little help from a bottle of their house Merlot.

Sala is a wonderful out-of-mall restaurant in the heart of the city. And Chef Carlo Miguel is its heart. If he maintains this streak, he will definitely be one of the chefs who will make the Philippines a destination not only for beaches but also for fine dining.

Sala, Makati. Podium Level, Locsin Bldg., 6752 Ayala Ave. cor. Makati Ave., Makati City, Metro Manila. Tel. (02) 750-1555. Major credit cards allowed. Smart casual. Wheelchair access difficult.