THE WORD “jasmine” has always exuded a sense of allure, a kind of opulent appeal that must certainly come from the scent of the flower that carries its name. Even jasmine tea has a regal air to it, so different and distinct from being just plain and relaxing. So does the restaurant named after this flower, located at the Renaissance
The ambience of Jasmine is elegant, using gold, white, black and deep red hues to convey Chinese opulence. Even the heavy chopsticks and the glass lazy susan at the center of the table maintain this message. The menu boasts of “fine Cantonese cuisine” and, kudos to Chef Choi Wing Ki, who apparently has opened many a good Chinese restaurant in Manila, including Li Li, the cuisine is fine indeed.
The Hot and Sour soup, which offers a beautifully gooey broth from the eggs mixed into it, is tempered so that it is just spicy enough to whet your appetite and sour enough to calm a starving stomach. This is served individually, rather than the custom in most Chinese restaurants where soup is served in a huge bowl for dispensing among the diners. The dumplings here, comparable in flavor and texture with the best Chinese restaurants in the metro, are offered with a glass of champagne on a promotion that will last till the end of July. Appetizers are also creatively served, such as the abalone appetizer, which is diced, paired with gingko, and spiced up, unlike the usual shreds of abalone that we are more accustomed to. Like the hot and sour soup, this is just spicy enough to awaken the taste buds before you dive into the main course.
Crispy Pork Skin
The main offerings at Jasmine are also impressive. You will come back again and again for the roasted crispy pork skin. This is actually listed under appetizers but a plate is large enough to work as a main course, especially if you are not a pig yourself. The skin is perfectly crisp and not oily. The chef, keeping to the theme of elegance, separates the skin from the meat with a slice of white bread, and cuts the dish into bite size squares. You can use the bread to sandwich the pork as you drizzle the hoisin sauce or you can lazily opt to keep everything in place and have the bread function to just break the fattiness and saltiness of the pork. Whichever method, this is an excellent pork dish.
Another recommendable pork order is their deep fried spare ribs. The touch of elegance here is in the use of Changkong vinegar, a vinegar which is not bold at all in its sourness that you almost miss its presence altogether. What you notice instead is the signature Jasmine mayonnaise that sweetens the spare ribs.
Of the live seafoods, the sea mantis was a memorable order. A bit of interesting trivia is that in China, they call this the “pissing shrimp” because it is said to have a tendency to urinate when cooked. (Sorry, did I just kill your appetite?) The mantis is interesting because it looks like a giant fish but is actually a kind of giant shrimp with the body similar to that of a lobster. It’s a sea freak to be sure, but the soft, thready white meat beneath its skin is delicious. Here, the skin is made all crisp and peppered with chili so you can eat the mantis without having to peel the skin off. A tip though is to eat this as soon as it is served; don’t let conversation get in the way of biting into it as it is no good eaten cold.
I found the wok fried chicken, served in a bowl with shallots, a tad too salty although very tender. I also realized that I am not a fan of gingko, which accompanies the braised assorted fungus, although I surmise that if you appreciate century egg (which I have not yet learned to appreciate), you will very much like this touch to the dish. The white fungus, however, is delicious, a very light and spongy sheet that melts in your mouth; a beautiful contrast to the umami from the mushrooms mixed in the braised vegetables.
Dessert must not be missed, even if you are so full from the rounds of main courses, especially this one: the glutinous dumpling stuffed with chocolate and tossed in peanuts. The glutinous rice is so fine and soft; the texture of the ball is made crafty by the crushed peanuts drizzled on it, while the chocolate is just rich enough to keep you wanting just a little bit more.
Other people come here for the pigeon; others come for the dumplings. Some come for meetings, some come for family affairs. Whatever you visit Jasmine for, though, you are bound to appreciate the fine flavors offered by Chef Choi. It is fine Cantonese cuisine, indeed! But don’t expect your surroundings to be pleasantly quiet. Don’t be surprised by the high-pitched conversations from the table next to yours. After all, the theme is Cantonese. •
Jasmine. 2nd Level, Renaissance Makati City Hotel, Makati Avenue (between Greenbelt and Pasay Road). Tel. 811-6888 ext. 3338. Open daily from 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Major credit cards accepted. Average P1,000 per head. Wheelchair access through elevator. Valet and basement parking available.
1 comment:
the crispy pork picture is making me drool....
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