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Bistecca
Bistecca
THERE’S a luxury clientele that is never hit by a bad economy: The Louis Vuitton-carrying, Prada-toting, Royce chocolates-eating, Chateau Margaux-drinking populace whose only sacrifice when the dollar takes a blow is to skip their summer tour of Greece. To be fair, this clientele includes both the legitimately wealthy and the royalties of the underground economy. They carry truffle salt from Paris in their LVs and grouse that none of the steaks here come close to Peter Luger’s
This is the target market of Bistecca, the latest addition to the slowly growing restaurant scene of Rockwell Land. It is a steakhouse but, living up to Rockwell’s slogan of Fashionable Manila, is a posh steakhouse with high ceilings and glass walls. It also has the most adorable white cloth napkins on each table folded to resemble a waiter’s tuxedo, with the restaurant logo elegantly on display as well as two huge (around eight meters) Joyas lining another wall, although these disappointingly turned out to be prints instead of the real thing.
Service is impressive at first sight. A doorman assists you in parking or crossing the street. If you make a reservation, the waiters will greet you by first name. But a few more visits reveal some weaknesses: bread is offered only if requested (at least on some days); the Yorkshire Pudding au jus which supposedly always comes with the “steaks for one” is not always available, and while the waiters are definitely friendly and commendably accommodate special requests, there are days when the recommendations get pushy.
The steaks are considerably large and just as considerably priced. The steakhouse is famous for its Bistecca 122, a kilo of USDA choice bone in rib eye roast which comes to around P3,000. As well as the Bistecca all Fiorentina, which is 1.4 kilos of USDA Choice Porterhouse for P3,500.
The steak delivers in size and in flavor, being juicy (medium, what more the medium rare?), flavorful and chewy enough for hardcore carnivores. Note that this is no Wagyu so the rib-eye lovers in search of butterknife steak better go to Little Tokyo instead. But if you love a good American steak, this is the place for you.
Interestingly enough, while Bistecca steak is known for its size, its distinguishing factor is the beef that it uses. Like Wagyu, it is special because it comes from specific cattle, the Chianina (from Chiana Valley in Italy; a breed that dates back to the Roman Empire) or Maremmana (from Maremma in Western Central Italy), which are known for the quality of their meat. This is not the meat that is served in Bistecca: they use USDA choice beef, although the sizing of the beef and the style of serving the steak, i.e., with olive oil is adapted.
As the restaurant puts a premium on the quality of the steak, be prepared to wait as long as 45 minutes for your Fiorentina or the 122. It is not for the time-pressed, but for those who want to impress or be impressed. For those who do not have the luxury of time, you may go for the solo steaks, which do not dismay: the Bone-in Tenderloin is especially satisfying. The rib-eye is comparable to those served in top steakhouses in the metro.
Praise may also be in order for specific side dishes, such as the mashed potatoes and the truffle fries. Prawns may also be ordered although these are not on the menu. If you wish to have blue cheese with your chicken, by all means ask, as their crew would be happy to accommodate. Other appetizers, however, are less impressive, such as the salpicao. And you should skip the spinach laing (not on the menu) built up by their charming waiter; a trip to Bicol is cheaper than an order of that.
Desserts are definitely not their specialty although, as in Italy, they serve good coffee. A better alternative, of course, would be the wine, of which they have an impressive selection.
That the restaurant uses USDA instead of Chianina beef, while slightly disappointing, is not really a big deal. There’s no doubt that Italians are masters of style but we still have to give credit to the Americans for their steak. •
Bistecca.
122 Joya, Rockwell, Makati.
Tel. 403-5231. Major credit cards accepted.
Wheechair accessible.
There is no sincerer love than the love of food. - George Bernard Shaw
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