Sunday Inquirer Magazine Archive April 4, 2010: Buon Giorno

MENU : A Good Day for Dining

By Margaux Salcedo Philippine Daily Inquirer

EVERY now and then, you find a restaurant just off a main road that surprises you with its relaxed yet romantic ambience. “This is a place I would go back to,” said the Forlorn Newsman. With a date? “Hopefully.” The restaurant, he explained, was the ideal date place for the Filipino yuppie at all levels: quiet ambience, beautifully presented Italian dishes you can’t spell, and easy on the pocket prices. I added that the best touch is they don’t play Nina or Michael Buble, like all other restaurants do. Alas, the Forlorn Newsman was of that demographic. “I like Nina,” he defended the artist. Another date worthy point of observation at this restaurant is the beautiful plating, thanks to food stylist Linda Floro who, along with food photographer Mark Floro, is the genius behind this resto. Actually, with such impressive plating, you would worry that they might be setting themselves up, raising expectations as to taste for an audio-video (gastro-video?) connect. Fortunately for them, they do not disappoint. The quality of the food at this restaurant is highly recommendable. Their menu has achieved a following because the taste is punctuated but not heavy both on the palate and on the stomach. The only dish that I tried wherein one ingredient overpowered all others was the Buon Giorno Special Salad. The menu boasts of its well-revered house dressing. A dressing of balsamic vinaigrette, if not mixed in thoroughly with the green leaves, becomes too revered. Thank God for the apple slices and the grape pieces that temper its taste. Like many other restaurants, there are some dishes that stand out and others that are not as memorable. At Buon Giorno, the most memorable item on the menu for me was the Canneloni Spinaci. This kept reminding me of the Godfather line, “Drop the gun, take the cannoli.” Of course, the Buon Giorno favorite was one syllable short but I’d shoot my target way before dessert and take the canneloni if this restaurant was the Mafia’s choice venue. While traditionally, canneloni is appreciated with ricotta cheese, at Buon Giorno, they serve it with mozzarella, which is probably why it has become such a hit with us Filipinos who are much more accustomed to the sticky texture of this cheese. But what really makes it a hit, I believe, is the tomato sauce, which has been poured in quite generously in this dish to contrast with the cheese. Altogether a beautiful mix. Most other pastas on the menu are likewise impressive, especially the tomato-based ones, such as the puttanesca and the arabiata. The pizzas are also worth ordering, especially because the restaurant allows two flavors to be served as one pizza. The pizza at Buon Giorno stands out because of its crust, which has that beautiful crunch to it without being too thin. The osso bucco and the lamb chops also have their own following being tender but not gamey. The fish is also appreciated although for the dory, it’s more for the buttery sauce that comes with it rather than for the fish itself. Appetizers and desserts at this restaurant have been raved about by others but they are clearly not the strongest points of the restaurant. While the chicken liver pate and the mushroom dip in the Trio of Crostini appetizers are perfect just to tickle your appetite, the pesto sauce still has room for creativity. The molten chocolate cake is fudgy and moist and delicious with the vanilla ice cream scoop but it’s not molten at all, i.e., there is no “lava” inside and neither is it hot. But people come to this restaurant mostly for the pastas and pizzas, more than anything else, and not for the appetizers or desserts. Buon Giorno on Shaw Boulevard is already two and a half years old and to have maintained the quality that epicureans had expressed appreciation for from the original Tagaytay branch to this one on Shaw is worth applauding. And to have achieved this at prices that are acceptable in these times of crises, is also something. True to its name, you can expect a good day. • Buon Giorno. Shaw Boulevard (Pure Gold complex),  Mandaluyong City, Metro Manila.  Tel. 710-3515. Major credit cards accepted.  Ground floor only; wheelchair accessible.  Easy parking. Approx. P300/head.

There is no sincerer love than the love of food. - George Bernard Shaw