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Old Places, New Faces
Old Places, New Faces
“I’LL be seeing you in all the old familiar places...” the song goes. And so we do. Except when we don’t because of the swift landscaping by the Ayalas and other developers! Many a trip home by balikbayans begins with the confession that they don’t recognize Manila anymore.
So it’s comforting to find some familiar places: the Manila Hotel, the original Max’s House of Fried Chicken off Tomas Morato, the old Aristocrat on Roxas Boulevard. But we miss those that have gone on to the next life, even if they have resurrected in some other form: Dulcinea in the old Greenbelt, Shakey’s the pub, the original Pancake House.
One of the survivors has been the Peninsula, even if what used to be “Manila Pen” is now just “The Pen.” The Pen Lobby has seen generations of business execs doing deals, ladies doing lunch, and high school kids doing ice cream (and hopefully just that!) on prom night.
But even The Pen has not been immune to changes. When the Shangri-La Makati made its entrance at the advent of the millennium, it competed by upgrading its interiors. Hence the sunburst sculpture shining brightly over lobby guests by national artist Napoleon Abueva.
Nor has The Pen been immune to history’s challenges. Remember then Defense Secretary Gilbert Teodoro’s order to break down the lobby doors when Sen. Antonio Trillanes would not surrender during what has been dubbed as the 2007 Peninsula Rebellion?
In spite of all these, the lobby has remained steadfast, including its menu: the schublig, the pancit luglog, the halo-halo, the ice cream. Priced prohibitively, they continue to be hits for no reason other than people’s desire to indulge.
Now comes a new face to an old place: a new chef is being introduced, Freddy Thierry Philippe Schmidt, a native of Saint-Marie Aux-Mines, Alsace, France. In a grand introduction, Pen PR Mariano Garchitorena invited food writers and editors to sample Chef Schmidt’s creations.
It was an indulgent feast. Duck liver terrine wrapped in cured ham and mango chutney paired with Gewurztraminer. Sauteed escargot so elegantly prepared you forget it used to crawl on soil. Oven-roasted lamb loin with Pinot Noir. Dessert with champagne. I felt like the General in the food art film “Babeth’s Feast,” experiencing what can only be afforded by one who has won the lotto.
Chef Schmidt is going to overhaul The Pen’s menus—from Old Manila to the Lobby—and blow us away because, after all, Garch says, he has prepared “extravagant meals for US President Bill Clinton, music powerhouse Michael Jackson and Hollywood A-listers George Clooney and Tom Cruise.”
But can he cook pancit?
We have yet to find out. He has committed to maintaining old favorites for fear of violent reactions from the regulars, but is studying what new items to introduce to the lobby menu. As of last week, nothing has changed. But he has the capacity to blow your palate away, so do hold your breath.
Similar changes are happening at an old favorite on N. Garcia Street (formerly Reposo) just off Buendia in Makati. L’Incontro has been, over the years, that reliable Italian restaurant where you could be sure to impress a date with its dim lights, cozy yet spacious interiors, satisfying menu and friendly staff. It’s also one of the rare restaurants open on Good Friday.
Most of all, owner Gino Martinel became known as that lovable Italian guy with the classic story of falling in love with a Filipina, moving here and opening a restaurant.
Martinel is now back in Italy but a younger, possibly more vibrant although not exactly Italian, lady has taken over: Inquirer’s former food writer Tina Pamintuan, who wants to recreate L’Incontro by making it more current while maintaining its heart.
This is immediately evident with the new interiors, whose white and taupe hues reflect modern chic. The piano now has a more current playlist, while the menu has been been vastly reduced, to the relief of some, like me, who always got cross-eyed at Martinel’s multitude of choices.
The new menu remains true to the Italian spirit in spite of its quest to encompass present restaurant trends. Chef Tina uses black truffles and truffle oil; serves onion instead of regular potato gratin, and the menu includes Rachael Ray jargon like “EVOO.”
While not everything on the menu might be universally appreciated, Chef Tina has some hits. The Crespella with Tartufo Sauce, for instance, is a delightful antipasto. The Formaggio Risotto using Gorgonzola, Parmesan, Camembert and goat cheese is an indulgent Il Primo or first course.
Beef is not their expertise, the beef tagliata and the vitello scallopine marsala (veal scallopine marsala) are possibly better appreciated elsewhere. But the pastas, which had made L’Incontro a favorite to begin with, continue to shine. The pancetta bacon gives the tagliatelle all’uovo a real kick while the classic spaghetti and meatballs is made enjoyable by the tart sourness in its sauce. Old favorites, like the Four Cheese Pasta, can also be requested. Look for Joseph Torres, one of the waiters who survived the transition from Martinel to Pamintuan.
Indeed, the only constant in this world is change. We may not be able to preserve flavors as generations past have experienced them but Chef Tina is in the right direction— riding the tides of the times while anchored to the spirit of what people have come to love. Let’s hope Chef Freddy will likewises take this direction. •
The Peninsula Manila.
Ayala cor Makati Avenue, Makati. 810-3456. www.peninsula. com.
L’Incontro. 207 Nicanor Garcia (formerly Reposo) St., Makati.
899 0638, 899 0642. www.Lincontro.ph. No reservations required.
Major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Limited parking.
So it’s comforting to find some familiar places: the Manila Hotel, the original Max’s House of Fried Chicken off Tomas Morato, the old Aristocrat on Roxas Boulevard. But we miss those that have gone on to the next life, even if they have resurrected in some other form: Dulcinea in the old Greenbelt, Shakey’s the pub, the original Pancake House.
One of the survivors has been the Peninsula, even if what used to be “Manila Pen” is now just “The Pen.” The Pen Lobby has seen generations of business execs doing deals, ladies doing lunch, and high school kids doing ice cream (and hopefully just that!) on prom night.
But even The Pen has not been immune to changes. When the Shangri-La Makati made its entrance at the advent of the millennium, it competed by upgrading its interiors. Hence the sunburst sculpture shining brightly over lobby guests by national artist Napoleon Abueva.
Nor has The Pen been immune to history’s challenges. Remember then Defense Secretary Gilbert Teodoro’s order to break down the lobby doors when Sen. Antonio Trillanes would not surrender during what has been dubbed as the 2007 Peninsula Rebellion?
In spite of all these, the lobby has remained steadfast, including its menu: the schublig, the pancit luglog, the halo-halo, the ice cream. Priced prohibitively, they continue to be hits for no reason other than people’s desire to indulge.
Now comes a new face to an old place: a new chef is being introduced, Freddy Thierry Philippe Schmidt, a native of Saint-Marie Aux-Mines, Alsace, France. In a grand introduction, Pen PR Mariano Garchitorena invited food writers and editors to sample Chef Schmidt’s creations.
It was an indulgent feast. Duck liver terrine wrapped in cured ham and mango chutney paired with Gewurztraminer. Sauteed escargot so elegantly prepared you forget it used to crawl on soil. Oven-roasted lamb loin with Pinot Noir. Dessert with champagne. I felt like the General in the food art film “Babeth’s Feast,” experiencing what can only be afforded by one who has won the lotto.
Chef Schmidt is going to overhaul The Pen’s menus—from Old Manila to the Lobby—and blow us away because, after all, Garch says, he has prepared “extravagant meals for US President Bill Clinton, music powerhouse Michael Jackson and Hollywood A-listers George Clooney and Tom Cruise.”
But can he cook pancit?
We have yet to find out. He has committed to maintaining old favorites for fear of violent reactions from the regulars, but is studying what new items to introduce to the lobby menu. As of last week, nothing has changed. But he has the capacity to blow your palate away, so do hold your breath.
Similar changes are happening at an old favorite on N. Garcia Street (formerly Reposo) just off Buendia in Makati. L’Incontro has been, over the years, that reliable Italian restaurant where you could be sure to impress a date with its dim lights, cozy yet spacious interiors, satisfying menu and friendly staff. It’s also one of the rare restaurants open on Good Friday.
Most of all, owner Gino Martinel became known as that lovable Italian guy with the classic story of falling in love with a Filipina, moving here and opening a restaurant.
Martinel is now back in Italy but a younger, possibly more vibrant although not exactly Italian, lady has taken over: Inquirer’s former food writer Tina Pamintuan, who wants to recreate L’Incontro by making it more current while maintaining its heart.
This is immediately evident with the new interiors, whose white and taupe hues reflect modern chic. The piano now has a more current playlist, while the menu has been been vastly reduced, to the relief of some, like me, who always got cross-eyed at Martinel’s multitude of choices.
The new menu remains true to the Italian spirit in spite of its quest to encompass present restaurant trends. Chef Tina uses black truffles and truffle oil; serves onion instead of regular potato gratin, and the menu includes Rachael Ray jargon like “EVOO.”
While not everything on the menu might be universally appreciated, Chef Tina has some hits. The Crespella with Tartufo Sauce, for instance, is a delightful antipasto. The Formaggio Risotto using Gorgonzola, Parmesan, Camembert and goat cheese is an indulgent Il Primo or first course.
Beef is not their expertise, the beef tagliata and the vitello scallopine marsala (veal scallopine marsala) are possibly better appreciated elsewhere. But the pastas, which had made L’Incontro a favorite to begin with, continue to shine. The pancetta bacon gives the tagliatelle all’uovo a real kick while the classic spaghetti and meatballs is made enjoyable by the tart sourness in its sauce. Old favorites, like the Four Cheese Pasta, can also be requested. Look for Joseph Torres, one of the waiters who survived the transition from Martinel to Pamintuan.
Indeed, the only constant in this world is change. We may not be able to preserve flavors as generations past have experienced them but Chef Tina is in the right direction— riding the tides of the times while anchored to the spirit of what people have come to love. Let’s hope Chef Freddy will likewises take this direction. •
The Peninsula Manila.
Ayala cor Makati Avenue, Makati. 810-3456. www.peninsula. com.
L’Incontro. 207 Nicanor Garcia (formerly Reposo) St., Makati.
899 0638, 899 0642. www.Lincontro.ph. No reservations required.
Major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Limited parking.
There is no sincerer love than the love of food. - George Bernard Shaw
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