23 February 2012

Hong Kong 2012: Caprice


 

Caprice spells F-I-N-E. Ensconced in the grandiose Four Seasons Hotel at Central, if you are the type that shrinks in the presence of extravagance, you will drown in these surroundings. 
Signature chadeliers and Victoria Harbor
The chandeliers are reminiscent of Phantom of the Opera, art with needle-thread stitching fills a wall and the commanding view of Victoria Harbour creates a first impression that lingers.

The service is par excellence. As if trained in ballet, the servers miss no step. They are present and alert just as you raise your hand, have an apparent appreciation of the chef's creations and are able to share the contents of the menu thoroughly, knowledgeably, enthusiastically.
Chef Vincent Thierry with the Ladies Who Lafang
But fancy as the frills are, they don't steal the show from its star: the creations of Chef Vincent Thierry. On a scale of 1 to 10, his creations rate an 11. 

Most notable in his style is how he makes the supporting characters on the plate shine as much as the lead. For a shellfish bisque with langoustine ravioli, while the bisque and langoustine are excellent (a week later I can still taste it), the sweetbread also has it's moment, especially after the maitre d' sheepishly says, "I won't tell you what it is 'til later." 
Check out the quality of this meat!
The duck brings memories of - believe it or not - lechon, presented in a block of meat with a thin sliver of duck fat resting underneath crispy skin; but just as memorable is the side of gnocchi that accompanies it enveloped in pork fat and with bits of bacon. 
 
Dessert is a beautiful "snowball tiramisu" but inside is a sponge biscuit with crunch from what is described on the menu as arabica crumble. 
All this from a grand but open kitchen where you can see the Master Thierry himself as he creates his art. Best of all, you can order bags of their signature salted caramel candy to go for pasalubong!
 
Caprice. Podium 6, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central; tel. 852-31968888, 852-31968860. Major credit cards accepted. Approx HKD 1500 for a three-course meal without wine. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations recommended. 
This is not a painting. It was sewn!
scottish salmon and young herb cannelloni in young herbs coulis
chocolate trio eclair and gianduja ice cream

Y to the UM. =)