The Peninsula brings The Sailors Club to Manila

Food author, columnist and editor Micky Fenix interviews Chef Greg Doyle (right), creator of The Sailors Club, and Chef Steven Skelly, executive chef of Sailor's Club. The Sailor's Club was Gourmet Traveler's 2008 Restaurant of the Year.

From Australia with Love.. I had to pressure the chefs into giving me these flowers - ha! But nevertheless - woohoo!

The spirit of Enrique Razon III filled the room.

"We have a Filipino sous chef," Steven Skelly shared. Mr. Skelly, Executive Chef of Sydney's The Sailors Club, is one of the guest chefs of The Peninsula Manila for its two-week focus on Australian cuisine called Tasting Australia, accompanying highly acclaimed and Sailors Club chef-patron Greg Doyle. The table of food writers beamed with pride. Props to Enrique Razon The Third!

"He told us not to eat street food here," Steven Skelly confessed. (Gasp!) My jaw dropped.  Why would anyone discourage chefs from exploring the street food of Manila?! Sacrilege!

To my mind, it is irreverent (!!!) for a true foodie not to touch base with hard core local flavors. If you need to have a taste of balut or sisig to know what the bad asses of Manila drink with San Miguel Pale Pilsen, so be it! "Nooooo. Go for it!"I told the visiting chefs. "It's usually fried, you don't need to worry about germs!!!"

The fact, though, that they were looking for street food reveals two things: 1. Australian chefs truly know how to explore cuisines. 2. They are just plain cool, bebe.

But "cool" at the Sailor's Club in Sydney is at an altogether different level. I didn't even realize who just cooked for us until I got to writing this. Oh. My. God. Shame on us who only know about Tetsuya. We just had a meal by Australia's main man!

While the first thought in a Pinoy's head for a sailor's club would be Manila Yacht Club, Mr. Doyle's version of casual dining by the sea is shet-conyo-pare amazeballs. Let me put it this way: if we were in the series Revenge, this would be Victoria Grayson's choice resaturant. Check out the photos from their website:

The Sailor's Club in Sydney, Australia. Photos from http://thesailorsclub.com.au/.

Wow.

Mr. Doyle apparently made a name for himself when this restaurant at Watsons Bay was still called Pier. Back in 2004, inspired by Robuchon, he created Pier's Tasting Room. Two years later, he was awarded Restaurateur of the Year and Pier won Seafood Restaurant of the Year at the National Restaurant and Catering Awards of Australia. In 2008, Pier made the list of San Pellegrino's World's Best Restaurants (the list highlights the world's Top 50 but also notes the next 50; Pier made it to Top 100) and was recognized by Gourmet Traveler as Restaurant of the Year.

Pier has since become The Sailors Club, with Mr. Doyle's daughter Jacqui creating the new concept. But Gourmet Traveler notes that even with its precedent prestige, the Watson's Bay resto under its new name has never seen the space this busy.

It seems the key is in being current and listening to the demands of the times. After dinner, Mr. Doyle talked about why he has opted to make The Sailors Club a casual dining instead of a fine dining restaurant. "Fine dining is on the sly," he observed. "Probably also due to the economic circumstances (globally) and also because of the younger generation who want a more relaxed atmosphere. Guests want a package. It's no longer just about the food."

The Peninsula was kind enough to spare us from having to buy a $1000 USD plane ticket to Australia and has brought Mr. Doyle and Mr. Skelly, along with their pastry chef Nic Waring, to the Philippines instead. While we won't have the "package" that The Sailors Club offers, and won't get to experience  this "relaxed atmosphere" that Mr. Doyle speaks of, we can get a taste of their award-winning dishes at Old Manila until February 3.

Begin your meal with a relaxing a soup martini: Mushroom Macchiato served in a martini glass. Foamed mushrooms for a shot of umami - lovely way to perk you up for what's ahead!

This is followed by a carpaccio of John Dory. "Who is John Dory?" the Garchman asked. "We know it's St. Peter's fish but who's John Dory?!" We searched the mobile web while waiting for the next dish and found this wiki explanation:

Various explanations are given of the origin of the name. It may be an arbitrary or jocular variation of dory (itself from the French dorée, gilded), or perhaps an allusion to John Dory, the hero of an old ballad. Others suggest that "John" derives from the French jaune, yellow. The novel An Antarctic Mystery by Jules Verne gives another account, which has some popularity but is probably fanciful: "The legendary etymology of this piscatorial designation is Janitore, the 'door-keeper,' in allusion to St. Peter, who brought a fish said to be of that species, to Jesus at his command." (St. Peter is said to be keeper of the gates of Heaven, hence "door-keeper".) Considering that the other known names for the John Dory are the "St. Pierre", or "Peter's Fish", as referenced above, this seems the most likely etymological origin,[contradiction] and may also explain why dories were often referred to as Peter Boats (Saint Peter being the patron saint of fishermen).[3] A related legend says that the dark spot on the fish's flank is St. Peter's thumbprint.[4]

The carapaccio was nice and light (noice and loight) as it should be. It was interesting to note that the hints of sour came from white balsamic vinegar.

After this, the meal crescendoed to scallops which I imagine is most reflective of The Sailors Club's menu. The scallops were beautifully cooked. There was a dash of spinach and ginger puree and a very delicately contained kaffir lime and lemongrass mixture. And just to temper it all, braised leeks. That's fine dining, baby, in whatever setting served.

For the main course, we were served duck (others had steamed bass grouper). "We were told to be more formal and not get too creative for the Manila crowd," Mr. Doyle later confessed. Boohoo.

So you know who stole the show? Nic Waring, the pastry chef ... because the desserts were to-die-for! Visitors, do not underestimate this skinny Jude Law lookalike. He offered several bowls of sweetness to share: the first was a seemingly simple mixture of strawberries and creme fraiche; the second was a coconut pudding and white chocolate and coconut sorbet with lime and coconut couscous; the third was a carrot and ginger sorbet with caramelized white chocolate and creme fraiche; and finally, there was a deconstructed tiramisu that had layers and layers of different textures and flavors of chocolate. We were blown away. Honestly I could've traded in the duck and just had dessert all night!

 

Hindi yan tofu sisig. That is deconstructed tiramisu. And hindi yan si Jude Law. That is The Sailor Club's Nic Waring.

"I guess you can describe this as modern Australian cuisine," Mr. Skelly concluded. 

Their creations are intelligent, fragrant, and with influences from all over the world - and that is just how they describe Australian cooking. "Australia is such a cosmopolitan country that we can pluck ideas from different countries," Mr. Doyle confirmed. (They also use calamansi!) 

Hugh Jackman would be proud.

***

Tasting Australia at the Peninsula Manila runs until February 3. For a hands-on kitchen experience with the Aussie master chefs Greg Doyle and Adam Mathis, sign up for the Kitchen Party  on January 30PHP 2,500++ (adults, inclusive of unlimited wine).

For inquiries or reservations, call 887 2888 or e-mail diningpmn@peninsula.com.