23 May 2014

Travel | The White Rabbit, Singapore

I first heard about White Rabbit in Singapore at the very first Miele Guide Awards in 2006 (so long ago - how fast time flies!). Ate Media had a post-event press lunch.

My jaw dropped when I was told what this majestic restaurant used to be: a Catholic church!



As you look around you'll see signature Catholic church designs: stained glass windows, arched windows and doors. I was also told that the confession room is now a wine cellar (with more than 100 labels - this would be a brilliant way to encourage confession!) And you can't miss the most important part of the church: the altar. Because it is now the restaurant's BAR.
 
World Gourmet Summit Guest Chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre by the White Rabbit bar
Sacrilege? Not to worry, the Host is no longer there. Although I would love to host dinner there!

Last March I got to re-visit White Rabbit for the World Gourmet Summit, upon the invitation once again of Miele Guide creators Aun Koh and Su Lyn Tan. The dinner boasted the creations of guest chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre, a Belgian-based South Korean with two Michelin stars to his name.

His resume is unique in that before opening his restaurant in 1997, he had never cooked. But in just two years, the restaurant won a Michelin star. And to prove that this was not just luck, L'Air du Temps won another Michelin star in 2007.

The restaurant is known for using the best local products and the chef showcased this even halfway around the world at the WGS White Rabbit dinner with this dish of crisp fennel over a bed of minced red peppers and orange.



Also, lamb was served not with ordinary vegetables but with lacto-vegetables. I'm assuming they meant these vegetables were lacto-fermented, a process that seems to make fruits go beyond seasons but at the same time become especially tasty. I haven't really seen this process done here in Manila, having only rainy and dry seasons. Hmmm ... something to discuss with Chit Juan!

  

More than using "the best local produce" - which seems to be the latest trend/advocacy since Noma became World's Number 1 - what was most impressive for me was the chef's capacity for visual stimulation - and deception!

For example, as the plate is laid on your table you think this is a pasta dish. But what you think is pasta is actually foie gras mousse!

 

It's brilliant and remarkably artistic. 

There was also a squid "tagliatelle" with croutons of mashed white coco beans. Here's my stolen shot from the dinner (but it was sooo dark boohoo)!


Hailing from Korea, the chef also offers Korean flavors but with a modern twist. For instance, his own mother may disagree (or be especially proud in astonishment) but this is the chef's version of the Korean classic bossam / bo ssam. Instead of having the guest personally wrap slices of pork in lettuce, it's all conveniently pre-wrapped for dainty dining. Chef Degeimbre's version also comes with oysters for additional - and very emphatic - texture. It reminded me of how Myrna Segismundo offers a lechon roulade as her presentation of the classic lechon - a very modern take on a classic.


The White Rabbit was nominated for Chef of the Year, Restaurant of the Year, Restaurant Manager of the Year and New World Wine List at the World Gourmet Summit awards (where Chef Tonyboy Escalante also won the Manitowoc Restaurateur of the Year award!)

I know I'm definitely going back ... both to up my education on fine cuisine as well as to confess (or commit?) some sins over a bottle of wine!


WHITE RABBIT
39 C Harding Road
http://www.thewhiterabbit.com.sg

Photo credit: Erwin Tan, Shade Photography