"The lights by the corner (on Makati Avenue) are pink and our food is Asian, hence the panda."
This was the explanation of the waitress when I asked why the restaurant was called Pink Panda. Actually, the lights are red, hence the term "red light district". But the restaurant does transport you to a Southeast Asian noodle house, whose interiors make you feel like you are in Singapore, Japan, Thailand and Vietnam all at once.
A bicycle hangs on a wall. An aquarium rests by the entrance. Chopsticks are conveniently placed on every table. And the private section that seats about 8 offers a very zen vibe. All this while being utterly hip. As I eat my laksa by my lonesome I feel like I'm in an Asian gangster movie, like Maggie Q or Zhang Ziyi might be seated at a neighboring table and a karate cum shoot out with Asian mafia would anytime take place.
In the spirit of hip, the menu speaks with swag. Pork belly roasted all day is called "Love You Long Time"; meatballs are called "Braised Balls of Fire"; a salad is served with "Daughter in Law Eggs"; and the item for pad thai is "It's a Fad Thai".
It's a great spirit to spark conversation as you decide on what to order. But some items on the menu tried too hard to be cool, some functionality was lost. The Tom Yum soup, whose flavors are on point, are served like shots - appropriately called Tom Yum Shots - in shot glasses. But you can't drink the soup like a shot because it's too hot. Neither can you hold the shot glass, also because it's too hot. And neither can you use a spoon because it won't fit into the shot glass's mouth. You have no choice but to make your fingers brave the heat and hold that glass in the spirit of cool.
Another soup, the Xiao Long Boom, is supposed to give you the impression of a giant xiao long bao. I get the idea: the broth in the xiao long bao is so good you could have an entire bowl of it. But the experience of the xiao long bao includes popping the entire dumpling into your mouth and getting a kick out of it bursting, releasing the excellent broth. Here, the dumpling skin has no real purpose except to be cute. In fact it was served sunken on my first visit, failing even in providing the imagery it was supposed to.
Other dishes offer some sense but may be too far out. The laksa, for instance, is served with flattened buchi that you are supposed to appreciate by dipping in the laksa sauce. However, the buchi's filling is too sweet it rejects any proposal to pair it with the laksa, as if saying, "I can stand alone." Do try the laksa with the shrimp cakes with sesame seeds instead, originally served with the tom yum. This one absorbs the soup and adds a slightly sweet contrast to the spice. It is absolutely delightful.
There are certain fusion recipes though that are not confused and thoroughly enjoyable. The prawn with salted duck egg is highly addictive, something the owners are said to have maintained from one of their former restaurants Crustacea. The beef rendang hits all the spicy notes, although do request the kitchen to make sure their beef is very tender. Same goes for the laksa but it would be wise to ask for an extra bowl of soup as the original bowl offers less and thicker soup, almost like a sauce, probably to accommodate the indifferent buchi.
The appetizers, while not prizeworthy, are immensely satisfying. The Vietnamese spring rolls and the "Dimsum and then Some" are both generously served, perfect for sharing on a night out with friends. And the Panda Buns are the cutest versions of siopao ever, Jack Black's heart would melt.
Interestingly enough, even if this restaurant is in the red light district, just off Makati Avenue, the crowd does not reek of sleaze. While the United Colors of Papas walk around outside, exotics in tow, inside are legitimate couples and groups of friends. Maybe it's an effect of the lights inside, which are decidedly blue.
The Panda isn't red after all but truly just a happy pink ... enjoying not the red lights but the laksa and other great Asian food.
Pink Panda
Y2 Residence Hotel, 4687 Santiago St cor Valdez St
(street of A Venue basement parking entrance).
Tel. 0917 839 0714
No reservations required.
Major credit cards accepted.
Wheelchair accessible.
Parking is a major, major headache. If you are driving, don't even attempt the hotel's basement parking which is steep and tight and the elevator takes an hour. I parked in the basement parking of A Venue across the street.
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