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The Goose Station
The Goose Station
A play on the word “degustation,” this place is quite an experience of “high culinary art.” The dishes as are tantalizing to the eyes as they are to the palate
According to the most appreciated source of the 21st century, Wikipedia (heh heh), the term “degustation” is a culinary term meaning “a careful, appreciative tasting of various foods and focusing on the gustatory system, the senses, high culinary art and good company.”
Taking the procedural aspect of degustation out of the picture, I believe we could translate this to “paglalasap” in Filipino, i.e. “a careful, appreciative tasting ... focusing on the gustatory system, the senses ...” versus, I guess, paglalamon, which takes out that entire appreciative aspect altogether.
But what the French have developed throughout the years which we Filipinos have yet to catch up on, is the “high culinary art” part. This is, in fact, more complicated than it appears. From what I have observed through readings, watching Iron Chef (heh heh) and the little bit of exposure that I have to frou frou dining, this involves a keen sense of taste, intense layering of flavors and textures, and impeccable plating.This is what The Goose Station, a play on the word “degustation,” sets out to achieve.
The Goose Station is the creation of husband and wife tandem chef team Robert Pengson (known in the blogosphere as the Culinary Kung Fu Master) and Sunshine Puey-Pengson (known as the Goddess of Degustation). They earned their reputation by word of mouth through 15-course degustation meals that they would hold in their partner culinary schools and through their catering company, Gourmandise.
I never got to try their creations then but here’s the testimony of someone who did try it:
“To put it simply, it was superb. Using only the finest quality ingredients, they designed courses small enough to tease and tickle our taste buds but with flavors that blew our minds.” (Ramblings from a Gypsy Soul, http:// gypsysoul73.blogspot.com/2007/05/chefs-sunshine-rob.html)Fortunately, the power couple decided to open a restaurant so food lovers such as myself who have no patience for reservations can experience “degustation.”
The first time I visited, with the Sexy Seductress, there was no a la carte menu yet. You had to order either the Signature Menu, an 8-course meal, or the Express Menu, a 5-course meal. And the thing is, if one orders the Signature, the other can’t order the Express. I guess they don’t want the other waiting around while the one who ordered Signature takes another half hour to finish her meal.
I was intrigued because the only other time that I had experienced this was at Daniel’s in New York. You know how we’re so Pinoy that one will order the expensive item to share while the other orders the cheapest item on the menu? White people are too smart for that; if you want the expensive menu, you will have to order two!
We ordered the Express Menu which, as it were, turned out to be too much anyways. On another visit, when I braved the Signature Menu, I was ready to give up by Course #3. Fortunately, they now offer a la carte servings, which a guest can have while others dine on the sets.
I must say though that The Goose Station is quite an experience of “high culinary art.” The dishes as are tantalizing to the eyes as they are to the palate. The use of ingredients is intriguing. And while there are lot of Asian flavors, you know that they use very modern, international (French? Japanese? molecular?) techniques.
This is followed, on either menu, by a Pea and Edamame Soup. It looks different because it’s green with foam in the middle but it carries with it the uncanny oxymoron of being rich yet delicate, with a surprise peeping in the end when your spoon scoops out the edamame seeds.
On the Signature Menu, you will have the Caviar Surprise followed by an Eggs Benedict which, in the Express Menu, you only have a choice of. Both are a must-try although I must concede that it should not be on the same night. The reason being that the Eggs Benedict is so heavy that if you have both, you run the risk of not appreciating the rest of the meal.
The caviar is light, with crab bits and a very refreshing asparagus cream. It’s so much fun when the caviar rolls onto your tongue and you pop them against your ngala-ngala (palate). The Eggs Benedict, though, is fancy. It comes in a cocktail glass! It is absolutely deconstructed but when you have it, it has all the goodness of your favorite eggs benedict, minus the bread. Plus, of course, as degustation dictates the use of fine ingredients, this one has truffle oil and fleur de sel, which I guarantee you will distinguish at the right bite.
The indulgence doesn’t end there, though by that stop you will be ready to go, which, I suppose, explains that part of the degustation definition requiring “good company.” Because if you do not have long and pleasant conversations between courses, you are bound to get full too quickly! Meanwhile if you have a challenging conversation, say, on Brocka versus Bernal, you will have consumed enough energy to have room for the Unagi-Foie Gras Terrine, which is next on the Signature Menu. This baby is just bad. A slither of foie, jelly in between, and a slice of unagi atop it. Sooo rich that you might want to try forsaking the joy of foie and just have the unagi on its own.
This is followed by a Prawn Ravioli, which is unique because of the addition of black garlic. And then, finally, by the main course, duck breast. This has great Asian flavors but for that purpose, the Roasted Scallop with Linguine, is preferable. This is extremely tasty pasta, thanks in large part to the use of an anchovy-orange mixture.
Now you can skip the main course but don’t skip the Chocolate Candy Bar for dessert. This is one couple who knows their chocolate. What is interesting here is that while half of the bar is dark chocolate, the other half is an Earl Grey and white chocolate concoction that is just baffling.
Finally, prepare a little over five grand if you are on a date. It’s P2,500 per signature menu (P1,700 for the express) but Rommel, the attentive waiter, and the hands by whom you are fed, will make sure that every minute you spend there is worth it. •
The Goose Station Signature Restaurant Inc. Ground Floor, W Tower, 39th St., Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. Open Mondays to Saturdays, 6-9 p.m. Reservations recommended. Tel. 556 9068, +63917 85 GOOSE (46673). Wheelchair accessible. Major credit cards accepted.
There is no sincerer love than the love of food. - George Bernard Shaw
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