MENU: IN YO

in yo
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A real steal

By Margaux Salcedo
Inquirer
Last updated 06:46pm (Mla time) 10/14/2007

MANILA, Philippines - “Rip off!” is one of the worst things that can be said about a restaurant.

At a Rockwell restaurant, I once found myself in Ally McBeal rage when I found that I had been charged P600 for nothing but sparkling water and tomato soup. ”Magnanakawwwww! (thief!)” I screamed in my head as I handed the waiter my credit card.

At the other end of the spectrum, though, is the compliment that a restaurant is totally worth the visit even if the meal had cost you that month’s rent. The meal would be comparable to purchasing art, each bite a part of the artist’s handiwork. And you’d feel you were cheating the artist if you did not pay him the full value of his creation. So when I find a chef who makes the effort not only to heighten flavors but to add dimension to a dish, thus marrying technique with imagination, I find myself bowing with respect and gladly paying for the masterpiece.

The culinary galleries of established artists like Margarita Fores (Pepato), Ariel Manuel (Lolo Dad’s), or Rolando Laudico (Bistro Filipino), demand an arm and a leg for their art. But if you scout well enough, you may stumble upon emerging culinary artists and not have to pay a month’s salary for a great tasting experience.

I found one such emerging artist a few weeks ago in Quezon City. His name is Niño Laus and his work may be appreciated in a quaint little restaurant called In Yo off Katipunan. The place is small, formerly the Laus family home, able to seat only 25 guests downstairs and 12 on the second floor. It would be easy to eavesdrop on the next table. Nonetheless, the small, Asian-inspired space provides a momentary escape that prepares you for the night’s main attraction, which is really the food.

I had the good fortune of selecting the Degustation Menu on my first visit, which comes with an amuse bouche. An amuse bouche (pronounced ah-moos-boosh) is a teaser before the show, a teeny tiny tasting plate to give you an idea of what’s to come. Here, the tease comes in the form of a Wasabi Deep-Fried Oyster―and it will have you at hello. The oyster arrives in its shell only for purposes of presentation. It has in fact been separated from its original home to be housed anew in a wasabi-flavored crust. When you pop this baby in your mouth, it will crumble to usher the very soft oyster onto your tongue, bursting with warmth, only later revealing wasabi undertones. It’s quite an original experience.

Then you have the opening act. That evening it was a “Salmon Belly Roll Stuffed with Crab Meat served with mixed greens in ginger ponzu dressing.” Think of crab meat wrapped in seaweed wrapped in salmon wrapped in seaweed. I loved the detailing and the effort. Hard as this is to trump, however, I found that a salad I had on another visit, the Oven Baked Sushi Style Prawn Roll on greens, could steal its thunder. It is similar, but this time it’s a solid crustacean creation, simply topped with Japanese mayo and lumpfish caviar, yet still exuding remarkable character.

With such an impact, the evening could peak early, as it did on my first visit. The entree of Duck Breast with a side of Ratatouille failed to match the highs of the exuberant introductions, although it is a fine piece on its own. Or the fascination level may dip, if you order something less demanding of creativity, such as the Shiitake Mushroom Udon, although this is executed impeccably as well. But I found in later visits that there are items on the menu that can successfully sustain the initial high. The Oven Poached Lapu Lapu leaves the kitchen still wrapped in foil and cut open before you, delivering a taste that is as compact as it is warm. The Baked Unagi with Pan Seared Foie Gras plays on shades of saltiness unique in each subject on the plate: the foie gras on the left, the shiitake mushroom on the right, and the eel centerstage. I found it best to put a tiny slice of each together to appreciate the different levels of saltiness in one bite. Just lovely.

Dessert is less high impact, bringing the show to a gentle, gradually tapering ending instead of a bang, but the commitment to creativity is nonetheless present: blueberry cheesecake plays with tofu while a creme brulee plate offers an extra two twists to the classic―coffee and chocolate flavoring.

Wining is not the practice, although basic reds and whites are available should you please. The service staff could be provided more knowledge on the contents of the plates they set on the table, which they should share with pride, given the talent of the chef, instead of resorting to a sad “ewan (don’t know)” when asked. Nonetheless, elegant touches are present everywhere: from the furniture, such as the beautifully converted sewing machines, to the food, like the sun-dried tomatoes in the tomato soup. The overall experience translates to a wonderful escape and for just P350 for the main courses on average (the degustation menu is around P900 exclusive of tax), the meals are a steal.

The biggest revelation of In Yo is that the chef is just a kid: Niño Laus is only in his twenties. So you should try him out now before he hits his prime and starts charging us the digits he deserves.

In Yo. #66 Esteban Abada St., Loyola Heights, QC. (From Katipunan, turn right on McDonalds, right on E. Abada (first corner). T 928-6459 M 0927 874 2611 E-mail in_yo06@yahoo.com . Major credit cards accepted. Parking available inside. Reservations not required but highly recommended. Handicap accessibility on the ground floor.